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Sunday, April 6, 2014

Best. Day. EVER. (Cinque Terre)

Today was easily the best day of the trip.

I'll admit that I'd never heard of Cinque Terre before Rebecca mentioned it, and I have no idea how I missed it!  It was beautiful.  I seriously considered just staying.

We had planned to hike between a few of the towns.  We got up at the crack 'o dawn to take an early train.  We dressed in layers and headed out.  We also were hit up in our first scam attempt by super aggressive "petition girls" outside the Santa Maria Novella train station.  They are AGGRESSIVE. They follow you and say "but it's for against drugs!"  I think I actually shouted NO! at one them.  It was really aggravating, especially so early in the morning.

We had to switch trains in La Spezia, which gave us a moment to recaffinate.  I realized that the purple of my jacket clashed *just so* with the purple of my dress, giving me a colorblind clown effect.  Luckily, it warmed up throughout the day and I looked better as I peeled off more and more layers.  We both regretted not bringing our bathing suits today.


The train ride was uneventful.  We decided to start at the furthest city, with plans to hike back part of the way, and catch the train for the rest.  However, we did not get that far!  We stayed in beautiful Monterosso al Mare the whole time.

All my purples, minus the jacket. 
                                         

We could not believe how stunning it was.  It was right out of a movie.

So dang pretty.

The views were amazing.  We could hardly believe they were real.  

The beach was beautiful!



 We hiked up a trail- pretty much straight up- and found a church and a graveyard.


An attempt to show how we feel via facial expression- I still have most my layers on! 


Outside the church


The St. Francis statue was beautiful, but the views were even more spectacular. 


We watched the people enjoying the water.



Rebecca gave the water a try- it's REALLY cold here.  Really, really cold.  We could not believe how many people were prancing around in the freezing cold water in bikinis. 


Cathy in the water, minus most of her layers.


Lots of people had climbed up this rock and were jumping off.


We were actually kind of worried about the girl on the left- but she jumped off with no problems.


Standard feet in the sand picture.




Here's the train we were on- you can see the city to the left!  We were not able to hike along the beaches, at the trails were closed for the season.


Another amazing view.




The standard selfie. 


We passed a gate with love locks on it.

After we came down from the hill, we decided to have lunch.  Rebecca's Gluten Free Italy book saved the day again, and led us to the most delicious restaurant we'd eaten at thus far, and that's saying something.  If you ever have a chance to eat at Miki, just do it.  It's worth it. It was amazing.


Rebecca's gluten free appetizer. 


We split a cheese course.  The cheeses were local. 


Rebecca's gluten free pasta and monkfish.

 This is sea bass ravioli.  The crust you see was set on fire and rolled back by the waiter. It seemed that most things here arrived in flames.


For example, Rebecca's gluten free dessert.  We also found the dishes everything was served on beautiful!


We went from broke (heh- almost literally.  This meal was astronomically expensive) and got dessert- this is chocolate mousse with dipping areas

We went back to the hotel full of beauty and delicious food!






Sunday, March 30, 2014

Padua was perfect

We were a bit apprehensive about traveling to other towns after the debacle that was Rome.  Thankfully, Padua was AWESOME!  It is high on my list of places to go back to.  We went to see the Scrovengi Chapel.

Here's some history on the chapel.  We had reservations, which were a pain in the butt to get!  We made them online, and it was the least user friendly website either of us have used in awhile. However, it was worth the hassle!  It was absolutely beautiful. Giotto did the frescoes inside, and it had the highest security of any of the art we've seen on this trip so far.  We had to leave our bags at the coat check, then go into an airlock type thing for 15 minutes so they could bring the temperature to a certain level.  They only allowed 25 people in at one time. They showed us a video about the art while we waited.  Rebecca and I were impressed that the paintings were still so clear, considering how many traumatic things that the chapel has gone through over the years.  This includes the general being bombed in WWII and the attached palace being torn down in the 1800's.  We were not allowed to take pictures, and we were only allowed to stay in the chapel for 20 minutes, but I think I could have stayed there all day.  Rebecca said that if there had been less people, she would have just laid down on the floor and looked up, but that seems to be frowned upon here.  Here's some pictures that I found online, but they in no way do it justice.  It was one of the most incredible things I've ever seen.

After our too short viewing, we went in search of our lunch place.  Rebecca had located a gluten free pizza place in her Gluten Free Italy book, so we walked to it from the chapel.  We even got there without getting lost, which is pretty much the first time we can say those words on this trip.

The pizza was delicious!


They even had gluten free beer, which was a rare treat for Rebecca. 




We also popped into a grocery store and found Mr. Clean! We decided he seems friendlier on the Italian bottles of cleaner.  We took a moment to look like the silly tourists that we are to snap this picture.


Cathy enjoyed the day a lot, and managed (somehow) to stay awake on the train ride home.  We stopped for a gelato and came back to the hotel to crash.  Padua is absolutely on the list for our next visit to Italy.  We both said how much we wished we'd had more time. There was a LOT of stuff to see, and it was such a pretty town.  It's a happy exhaustion. 

Friday, March 28, 2014

*insert witty title about Rome here*



In our memory of this day, we will always be waiting for trains.

We headed to Rome with optimism!  We had our lunch stuffed into Rebecca's purse, tickets to see the Sistine Chapel, and faith that we could navigate the maze that are Rome's streets.

Instead we got the gritty Rome experience, got lost in the ghetto, and tried to breathe and clung to Cathy's belief that help is on the way, 100% of the time.

Our adventure started when we were sold train tickets for a train that left three minutes later. It was not the train we would have chosen, but that is all we could get the lady to understand.  We BOLTED to the platform, hopped on the first car we saw, and promptly got stuck behind a tour group that seemed to think that riding on a train=standing in the aisle with their suitcases, chatting about nothing in particular.   It was a stressful way to start a trip, but we finally got to our seats and were on our way!

We arrived at Termini Station in Rome, and headed to a commuter type train.  However, it was confusing, and we were unsure if we needed the F1 Train or the Metro.  After staring at a map/consulting Google Maps, we decided it was the Metro, so we ran down to catch a train.  Rebecca went in, but Cathy's ticket refused to work.   She went over to the booth, and had a chat with a lovely, kind English speaking woman did an interpretive dance until the bored lady in the customer service box understood that her ticket was not working.  She stamped the ticket and let me in just in time for us to realize that we did need the F1 train.  We ran back up the stairs just in time to hop on our train a train going to opposite direction.

NOooooooOOoOooO!  We realized that we were in the wrong train fairly quickly, so we decided to get off and take a bus.  We got off in a quaint neighborhood the ghetto and found a bus station.  However, the information at the station made ZERO sense.  We finally decided to ask a lady waiting at the bus. She did not speak English, but Cathy remembered that she had a translator on her phone, so she did that, and it helped enough for her to tell us that we were not even close to where we thought we were and wanted to be.  She gave us directions to the nearest bus that would get us closer, and we started the trek to the bus.

This is when it started raining.

We walked and walked and walked and walked, and finally got to the bus stop and were able to get on the number 64 bus.  The number 64 bus, as we later learned via Google, is known as the pickpocket line, which explains the guy that shoved into Rebecca and seemed a bit odd.  He'd been playing the violin before that, and then went around begging and "falling" into people.

We got to our first bus transfer area and got on a bus and promptly missed our stop.  Luckily we realized this fairly quickly, so we got off at the next stop and walked back.

We decided to depend on Google maps to get us to the Vatican, and we made it, but we walked around the ENTIRE Vatican first.  The. Entire. Wall.   By this time, we'd missed our reservation, we were hot, we were sweaty, and we were hungry.  We smelled fresh and clean like dirty, wet goats, and looked as happy and friendly as we felt.   We were not even sure we were in the right place, but we figured that we would go with it, and if we were in the wrong place, they'd tell us.

We were in the right place.  They kindly agreed to accept our reservation and we were on our way to the Sistine!  It was C-R-O-W-D-E-D, but amazing.  It was stunning how much art they'd crammed in.  Even the building itself was art.

The Sistine Chapel was packed and loud.  The guards kept shushing us, and at one point, pulled out a bullhorn to shush the crowd, but we think it just made everyone louder.  Despite the crowd, it was amazing to see the art and stand under it.  We were not allowed to take pictures, but you can find lots online.

After we saw the Sistine Chapel, we ran to the Vatican to see the Basicilla. We had to fend off vendors and some guy who kept trying to sell us a secret entrance map or something.  The dude was NOT hearing no, and kept insisting that it would take us at least three hours.   We ignored him and headed to the line:



We were able to get through security in about an hour. We realized that we may have accidentally cut in line, but then decided that we did not care. :)



Here's a fun aside- years ago, Rebecca's parents came to the Vatican and her mother's clothes did not meet the modesty standards.  She bought a dress at a nearby store.  Rebecca wore that very dress for our Rome visit!



After our visit, we decided to just ask the best way to get back.  We were directed to the Metro.  En route to the metro, a woman giving a tour poked Rebecca with the flag she was using to guide her tour group, and then used the flag to physically push her out of the way.   Really?  Really.

We made it to the steaming, stinky, crowded metro and promptly got on the wrong train.  The trains here look like a prop from a 1980's movie about New York City, graffiti and all.   We decided to ride it out, thinking that it would go in a circle.  Nope.  We got to the last stop, got back to where we were, and got on the correct train the wrong train.  It was close- but it branched off into another area.  So we got off, waited around for yet another train.  That train was crammed to the brim with people. We tried to stuff ourselves in, but we would not fit and were left on the platform.  I will neither confirm or deny both of us bursting into tears at this point.

As we were not NOT sobbing on a platform of the grosses subway ever, we decided that we were getting on the next train no matter what.  We had finally reached that zen moment where you simply no longer care what had to be done to get out of the situation.  We shoved ourselves on to the next train, and in turn were shoved further in by people behind us.  There was a woman in front of us that did not appreciate the crowding and elbowed Rebecca's chestal area really hard, which was unfun.  She also yelled at Cathy when Cathy uttered the super rude words of "Excuse me" as she tried to pass her to get out of the train.

Rebecca cannot eat gluten, and there was no gluten free food that we could find while we waited for our train.  She had potato chips.  Cathy had an okay sandwich.  We were so tired that we sat on the ground near on our platform.  Rebecca narrowly saved Cathy from sitting in gum, so it could have been worse.  We'd like to take a moment to formally apologize,  in writing, to the good people of Train Car 9, who had to endure our "sweating through Rome" aroma.  This excludes the DudeBro who:

  • spent the entire trip dancing (if you can call it that),
  • ignoring the obnoxious ring on his cell phone except when he was talking loudly on it
  • rolled a cigarette (we think) getting tobacco on the floor due to dancing and talking loudly on his phone.


Rome didn't burn again thanks to the following people


  • The nice lady at the bus stop who did not speak English, but did her best to help us anyway
  • The nice lady at the Vatican who helped us find our way back to the Metro
  • The ticket taker at the Vatican who did not notice that we accidentally (but did not correct our mistake when we realized it) cut in line
  • Our train ticket taker, who for reasons that we cannot explain here, totally had our back.

Our take on Rome in selfie format:


We're not sure we look despairing enough, and we're aware that you cannot smell us through the internet.  However, this is the best we could do.

Good morning Florence! #blog



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